"Mono-no-aware" (物の哀れ) is a Japanese phrase which resists clear translation. It is often defined in English as "an emptahy towards things" or "the subtle awareness of ephemera". The most apt phrase I have seen in English is "a sense of transience". This is a concept that is integral to much of Japanese classical art and culture. It is also the perfect phrase to describe a visit to the Samurai Jazz Bar.

Located in the building that used to house the Shinjuku Pit-Inn, the Samurai is a treasure. When you enter to the left off the elevator you immediately are taken into another era, face to face with a 5-foot manneke-neko (招き猫`lucky cat figurine`). These cat figurines are omnipresent at the entrance to Japanese eateries and shops, beckoning in customers with a raised paw. Inside the Samurai are more than 2500 of these lucky cat figurines spread throughout the interior, hanging from the walls, piled in cabinets, in paintings and in photos. Some frowning, some scowling, some with a serene smile..it's an awesome site. Hanging on the walls are scrolls of haiku calligraphy, adding to the mysterious atmosphere.

With repeated visits I slowly began to chat more with Miyazaki-san, the owner. He is a present-day shaman running a jazz bar but also creating modern haiku and hosting live, improvised haiku sessions..When I asked about the haiku sessions and their relationship to jazz Miyazaki-san simply told me "well after all, haiku is jazz isn't it?" I guess it is..About the cats he simply said "I like cats, they bring good "engi" (縁起- omens)".

In between the cats and the scrolls there are signed album sleeves on the wall, from Miyazaki-san`s time in New York in the 1970's. The music reflects Miyazaki-san's maverick character; in one visit I heard John Zorn, James Carter, Count Basie, Abdullah Ibrahim and Big John Patton..quite a mix of styles in one sitting, amd all glorious.

Dark, quiet, extremely peaceful..with the cats making it just a tiny bit unsettling,the Samurai is a place that lends itself to contemplation. You feel a sense of timelessness in there, with the music transporting you to a new space, of calmness and clarity. I have been to jazz bars and cafes around the world and without a doubt this is the most unique and wonderful jazz establishment I have yet been to.

Miyazaki-san is usually there early on Saturday afternoons for "cafe time" but call first. And be sure to look for the postcard on the front door, it will explain the origin of the name "Samurai"..and it's not what you think..